Beer and Food

Greetings,

Collaboration not Litigation Ale

The opening statement by the defense: (What the brewers want you to know)

"Salvation... the name of two intricate Belgian-style ales, created by us Vinnie Cilurzo of Russian River Brewing and Adam Avery of Avery Brewing. After becoming friends a few years ago, we realized that we both had a Salvation in our line-ups. Was it going to be a problem? Should one of us relinquish the rights? "Hell no!" we said. In fact, it was quickly decided that we should blend the brews to catch the best qualities of each and create an even more complex libation. In April 2004, in top-secret meeting at Russian River Brewing (well actually it was packed in the pub, and many were looking over our shoulders wondering what the hell was going on), we came up with the perfect blend of the two Salvations. Natalie, Vinnie's much more significant other, exclaimed, "We should call this Collaboration, not Litigation Ale!" "Perfect!" we shouted. We celebrated deep into the night, (or is it morning?)."

"Fast forward to November 14, 2006. After talking about it for over 2 years we finally decided to pull the trigger and Vinnie flew out to Avery to brew his Salvation exactly as he does in his brewery. This was blended with Avery's Salvation December 11th, 2006. We hope you enjoy it as much we enjoyed brewing and blending it."

"All profits from this joint venture will fund a return educational trip to Belgium with our bros Tomme (Port Brewing), Sam (Dogfish Head Brewing) and Rob (Allagash Brewing). This pilgrimage will enable us to learn even more about traditional brewing techniques to combine with our already strange and unique styles here in America."

The follow up by the prosecution: (To do justice (pun intended) to these tasting notes I was joined by two members of the Kings County (Brooklyn) legal community. I will call them J.L. and Big Sam to protect the guilty.)

J.L. - "Not too sweet... a smooth beer. My wife would like this!"

Big Sam - "If this was a defendant I would have the charges read excessive richness with an added count of being well balanced"

My notes:

Appearance: A deep, dense red garnet brew that is topped with a rocky, sandy tan head.

Aroma: A green grass, not yet mowed, aroma is subtly supported by a general grain impression.

Mouth feel: The fairly full mouth feel is accented with some carbonation but not enough to affect the flavor.

Flavor: This is a full flavored brew that must be sampled at cellar temperature (50F) to be appreciated. Served at bar temperature (40F +-) the flavors develop from pleasantly well balanced and dangerously quaffable to fullness combining chocolate, caramel and molasses dancing with sweet/sour counterpoint of green apple aroma and flavor and the resonance of fresh green tree leaves on a warm spring afternoon.

Finish: The finish at bar temperature is remarkable refreshing with little sweet malty cloy or harsh alcohol. When allowed to warm to cellar temperature the finish is equally well balanced but with many more layers of flavors to enjoy.  

VITAL STATISTICS:

Beer Style: Blended Belgian-style Strong Ale

OG: 1.079  

Alcohol by Volume: 8.99%

http://www.averybrewing.com/BigBeers/seasonal/CollaborationnotLitigationAle

Cheers!

Peter LaFrance

( http://www.beerbasics.com/ )

Greetings,

Ripped from the headlines!

HOW TO GIVE PROPER THANKS!

Climbers plan bash to benefit their rescuers

03:30 PM PDT on Wednesday, March 28, 2007

By DAVID KROUGH and ANTONIA GIEDWOYN, kgw.com Staff

A group of climbers rescued off Mt. Hood in February will hold a fundraiser for their rescuers at a popular Portland brewpub on Thursday evening.

http://www.kgw.com/lifestyle/stories/kgw_031207_news_climber_fundraiser.6df8abb.html

HOLY BREW-CHURCH BATMAN!!!

Church goes to brewpub to extend membership

Outreach ministry aims to attract people who aren't likely to attend traditional services.

By TIM TOWNSEND

St. Louis Post-Dispatch

http://www.kansascity.com/mld/kansascity/news/local/16968598.htm

BEERLY LEGAL...

Belly up to the brew at Hilldale's Great Dane

By Michael Muckian
Special to The Capital Times

http://www.madison.com/tct/entertainment/index.php?ntid=125852&ntpid=0

Cheers!

Peter LaFrance

( peter.lafrance@beerbasics.com )

Greetings,

Today, as promised, you will leran of my adventures as I "lunch" at Peter's Waterfront Alehouse, Brooklyn, NY, USA. 

Lunch at the Brooklyn Waterfront Alehouse

11 May 2006 Thursday

By

Peter LaFrance

The Brooklyn Waterfront Alehouse has been dispensing beer and true beer-cuisine, for almost twenty years, tucked between Henry and Clinton Streets, on Atlantic Avenue, Brooklyn, USA.

Today it is on the "north" side of the Avenue, although true compass reading would have it on a slightly western side of the thoroughfare.

Still under a hood of scaffolding, it stares out in the daylight and smiles warmly in the evening hours. The cast iron façade sports a wide front window, hung with notices of events, bands and service awards and glowing neon beer company logos.

Entrance is through a wood framed glass door, festooned with decals from various credit-card companies and dining awards. Inside, to the immediate right are three tables in the window area. The bar that extends the length of the restaurant is to the right, under an illuminated New York City Skyline.

Today, Peter, the bartender, had selections of Nashville rockin' blues (1940-1970) on the music system and the last order of grilled shrimp waiting for me. It's a good thing I arrived when I did. If not, I am sure he would have had those last two orders of shrimp for himself.

As you can see from the picture below, I could not resist the aroma of spices that arose from the plate in front of me. Following the house procedure, as observed from Peter's attack on his shrimp, I used a knife and fork. Slipping the knife under the major shell case reveals the main portion of shrimp. A careful securing of the lose shell with a fork allowed me access to the singular morsel in the tail section. The texture was luscious, a slightly sweet, saline flavor with an almost lobster-tail texture, but rather lighter and more tender. Peter ate those shells and all.

Beverage was a pint of Rock Art Ridge Runner Ale. I failed to photograph. Perhaps because there were two of them and I forgot both times? Nevertheless, I present a photo of the beer list and rest assured you can take notes.

I can assure you it was an elixir of dark red copper topped with a one inch head of fine smooth light tan froth.

The resulting "lace" of bubbles left flattened and clinging to the sides of the pint, was prodigious, revealing a full malt content. A caramel aroma sweet flavor sensation slowly, so slowly yielded ground to a fresh green hop final kiss on the pallet.

Today I drank desert, a snifter of Gabriel & Andrieu Cognac. (Call for a "G&A"...) The aroma of fresh-cut wood aroma laced with a whiff of medicine cabinet (phenol) introduces a burst of warmth followed by an echo of cut wood finishing in traces of raisins.

And that was a light lunch...

Cheers!

Peter LaFrance

( peter.lafrance@beerbasics.com )

Here in Brooklyn, NY, USA, the appreciation of the GBBD (Great British Beer Debate - Real Ale vs. Kegged Ale) is less important than actually finding a pub, bar, bistro, tavern, that has malt beverages on a hand pump and an owner (publican) who knows how to maintain a draught beer system. There are two within a kilometer or two from where I write this blog.

            One, The Brazen Head, has at least two on gravity and every few weeks (fortnight) holds event that feature a couple dozen offerings. These events draw enough imbibers that the freshness of the brews is never in question. There may not be a second pint when you go back again. Without a kitchen I usually find this place while on the way to another place. Do the patrons of this establishment feel they are a bastion of "real beer" in a hostile environment, always under attack? On the contrary, the lion has lain down with the lamb. The co-existence of real and kegged has happened! Come and see!

The first pint is on me...

            The place I call "home" most Thursdays between 1500 and 1700 is also a dispenser of Real Ale. The Waterfront Alehouse is a "beer-bar" that not only pours Real Ale, it has a kitchen with imagination and a sense of humor. Chef Jim and owner Sam B. have maintained a level of true "low and slow" BBQ touted by folks with big drums to beat. The Alehouse has a good sized smoker that turns out some fine BBQ. The rest of the menu, especially if you are into game, is always interesting. For example, here is a dish of Bambi's mother...

Tomorrow I will post a full report. But I digress... Here also the attention paid to the proper serving of Real Ale is respected but no call for adoration. Only those seeking a selection from the Anheuser-Bush family of brews will be disappointed... and only if they leave.

Until tomorrow...

Cheers!

Peter LaFrance

(peter.lafrance@beerbasics.com )

When I wrote my book Cooking & Eating with Beer http://www.beerbasics.com/Cooking_and_Eating_With_Beer.htm

one of the most interesting interviews was with Chef Cory Mattson, of the Farrington House, Pittsboro, North Carolina.

His discussion of cooking with beer and kitchen conservation follows:

            "I got into using beer in the kitchen when I began to understand "deglazing," a better term to use rather than "reduction." I got into deglazing when I was getting seriously interested in cooking and was working in a serious restaurant called Landwares in, New Jersey, on the Delaware River in Lambertville.

            It was there that I also started to work with shrimp shells. At that time the more enlightened restaurants were using things that most people would throw away for the essential ingredients in their signature dishes. One of the things that separated the fine restaurants from the others was their ability to use something like shrimp shells instead of throwing them away. We would peel and then bread shrimp for frying, or steaming or grilling and then cook the shells with some vegetables, garlic and seasoning. Then deglaze the pan with beer to get an extended cooking process. The result was a rich sauce that could be used in a number of ways. You could just throw butter in and strain it for a smooth sauce for sautéed fish, or grilled fish steaks.  Or you could add cream to it for a sauce. Add a gallon or two of stock and you had a nice soup.  It was unique because it was a flavor that you can't buy.

            What I would like to share with you is an oriental style Shrimp Shell Soup that is based on the shrimp shell deglazing procedure with some vegetable seasonings, dry seasoning and to give it an oriental flavor; ginger, scallions, and lemon grass. The "deglaze" with beer extends the cooking process because the shells release more color, more gelatin, aroma and probably more nutrition too, the longer you can extend the cooking process. Then comes the interesting choice. You can re-hydrate it with stock, water or beer and see what you end up with.  Lightly garnished with a dumpling, a pot sticker, or even simple rice or thin noodles, you have a very nice soup."

SHRIMP SHELL SOUP

From the kitchen of Cory Mattson

FARRINGTON HOUSE

Pittsboro, NC

(4 servings)

Comments: Frugality and basics is the tasty key to this basic dish. The best beer to use is a dark, rich flavored, ale. The rich color and sweet malt flavor reduces perfectly in this case. Don't worry about the hops. The heat of the peppers and the stock marry the bitter and heat nicely.

INGREDIENTS:

Shells (leftover or frozen)

3 oz. Olive oil

1 tsp. Red pepper flakes

1 tsp. Green pepper corns

3 Bay leaves

1 12 oz. Ale - rich, dark ... (

1 onion (small) - peeled and finely diced

4 celery stalks - finely diced

1 stem leeks - peeled and finely diced

1 ginger bulb (small) - chopped

Half a gallon of Chicken broth (enough to cover shells)

Garnish:

1/2 cup Shrimp - chopped

1/2 cup Scallions - sliced

1/2 cup Mushrooms -assorted - chopped

2 oz. Soy sauce - approximate

1 oz. Sesame oil (approximate)

Salt and pepper to taste

PREPARATION:

Heat a Dutch Oven. Sweat the shells, olive oil, red pepper, thyme, peppercorns and bay leaf until very orange and light brown (approximately 10 minutes). Add the ale and simmer until it is evaporated (approximately 10 minutes). Add onion, celery, leek, and ginger. Cover with broth. Simmer 30 minutes. Strain, add garnish. Season to taste with Soy sauce and Sesame oil.

And so you can see why this was one of my favorite interviews.

Cheers!

Peter LaFrance

(peter.lafrance@beerbasics.com )

Greetings,

Steinlager Pure New Zealand Beer

Appearance: Light yellow-gold liquid with a tall white frothy large bubble head that holds up fairly well.

Aroma: As soon as I opened the bottle I knew it had hops in it. That moment between nose, lip and sip recalled memories of the many green-glass bottled brews consumed in mass quantities.

Mouth feel: A medium body was bolstered by a sharp spike of carbonation (carbolic acid) that introduces the hop tang.

Flavor: The initial impression is a little corny followed by a bready malt followed by that hop flavor that sprints...

Finish: for the finish line leaving not much of a lasting impression. The finishing flavors echo the main flavors with the additional support of the hops that leaves a drier than expected finish.

Comments:

The folks who brew and market Steinlager are quite proud of being from New Zealand. From the back label: "The Silver Fern (pictured on the back label) is worn with pride by all Kiwis when defending their nation's honor in sport. It is always handy to swat off the flies that generally follow with their Australian foes."

VITAL STATISTICS:

Style:   Premium Lager

First Brewed:   1958

Alcohol Level: 5.0%

http://www.lionzone.co.nz/brewing_brands_history_ST.asp

What others thought: (The posts relate to the 06 version of the product.)

RateBeer:

http://www.ratebeer.com/Beer/steinlager-premium-light/9393/

Beer Advocate:

http://beeradvocate.com/beer/profile/915/2945

Cheers!

Peter LaFrance

( peter.lafrance@beerbasics.com )

Greetings,

Last summer I had the opportunity to visit the State of Vermont, while on the way to retrieve a summer-camper. A friend of mine was retrieving Son #2 and I signed on to ride shotgun in exchange for plotting a day of visiting the breweries and brewpubs of the state.

The first thing I did was to list of every brewery and brewpub in the state into a program called Microsoft Streets & Trips. It was going to be a fantastic voyage. And fantastic it was.

First of all, you must understand that I am a pedestrian. I live in a city that is a walker's dream. I do not drive a car.  You need to know this in order to grasp the logic that drove me to actually believe that my designated driver and I could make eight stops; chat, tour, taste and travel to the next one, all in one day.

It began with a two hour late departure; I had a feeling that the triage tent was going to fill up fast, as I made the first cell phone call to cancel a visit to the Harpoon Brewery in Windsor, VT. (I didn't want anyone staying late in the office for my sake.)

It was just on eight o'clock when we rolled up to The Norwich Inn and Jasper Murdock's Alehouse, in Norwich, Vermont. Just in time for a dinner reservation that I was glad I made on the trip up.

Figure 1 The Sign for The Norwich Inn, Norwich, VT

After a six hour trip from New York City, it was a pleasure to stretch the legs and walk, even if it was only from the parking area to the front desk. Our accommodations were in an out building that had once been a "Motel" attached to the Inn over fifty years ago.

Figure 2 - The "Motel" at The Norwich Inn, Norwich, VT

The care in the reconstruction and restoration was not surprising once I entered the main building.

Figure 3 - The Main building of The Norwich Inn, Norwich, VT

I will allow their promotional material fill you in on some basic information in that I can find no fault with its content.

"In 1993 we revived this brewing tradition at the Norwich Inn when Jasper Murdock's Alehouse began producing traditional English-style ales in 5-gallon glass jugs. By 1995 an historic livery building was renovated and outfitted with a new four-barrel brewhouse, enabling 125-gallon batches. Though the vessels are now larger, we remain perhaps the smallest brewery in America, with an annual production of less than 200 barrels. Jasper Murdock's Ales are sold only at the Norwich Inn. As in days gone by, we make just enough ale for the brewer and our guests."

And the description of their brews is also "spot-on."

"Jasper Murdock's Ales are crafted from fine English malts, with hops grown in England and in our own hop garden here at the Inn. Because filtration can strip flavor and body from a beer, the ale yeast is allowed to settle out naturally in an extended cold-aging period to ensure that all the goodness reaches your palate. The beer is then pumped underground from the beer cellars to our pub at the Inn, or packaged in jumbo 22-ounce bottles for sale in our Bottle Shop."

Figure 4 The Brewhouse at The Norwich Inn

(Yes, those are hops growing on the left, and a smoker in the middle.)

Figure 5 - An early evening view of the Jasper Murdock brewhouse.

Figure 6 - Tim, cleaning-in-place.

Figure 7 - Bottling line at The Norwich Inn/Jasper Murdock

Figure 8 - Tim Wilson's hops growing. The Norwich Inn, Norwich, VT

Figure 9 On the left, your humble scribe with Tim Wilson brewer/innkeeper

Jasper Murdock Ale List:

Whistling Pig Red Ale

Inspired by an Irish classic. Garnet-red in color with a rounded malty flavor and a lingering hop aftertaste.

Old Slipperyskin India Pale Ale

A strong amber ale, full bodied, with a hearty hop flavor and a pronounced hop finish.

Stackpole Porter

A dark ale style dating back to the 1700's. Roasted malt lends chocolate and coffee-like flavors and aromas.

Second Wind Oatmeal Stout

This black ale has the characteristic flavor of dark roasted barley, the sweetness of caramel malt, a full body contributed by oatmeal, and an intense but balanced hop flavor.

Other styles served on tap at Jasper Murdock's Alehouse:

Jasper Murdock's Extra Special Bitter

A rich and flavorful ale, it has a mahogany color and a strong hop aftertaste at the back of the tongue. A touch of molasses contributes a hint of rum to its malty palate.

Fuggle & Barleycorn

Fuggle is the distinctive hop variety which flavors this pale ale, and is one of the few varieties used in brewing today which your great-great- grandfather might also have enjoyed. A classic golden ale.

Oh Be Joyful

Vermont's soldiers in the Civil War used this name for the often frightful concoctions they fermented from hardtack and other camp supplies. We use the moniker as an invitation. Despite its earlier incarnation, we think you'll like this, a classic English Mild Ale. Light and refreshing with very little bittering hops.

Last Pick Pale Ale

Pale amber in color and lightly bittered, this beer uses our home grown hops in the brewing process to impart flavor, and again in the serving cask for aroma. Like none other.

Dr. Bowles' Elixir

Named for the former Innkeeper and Dentist who owned the Inn at the time of the great fire and proceeded to rebuild. We salute his Yankee gumption with this hearty amber brew, laced with Belgian crystal malt and smartly hopped with Norwich Inn hops.

Jasper Murdock's Private Stock

A strong ale, packed with flavor and made with hops from our own hop garden. Extra aging and small batches make this a limited edition brew for special occasions.

That's the story.

Cheers!

Peter LaFrance

( peter.lafrance@beerbasics.com )

Greetings,

This bottle of brew was found this morning, hidden in the back of the top shelf of the refrigerator. Here is its' story...

Summit Winter Ale '05

Appearance: A clear deep dark not-opaque garnet colored brew with a light tan rocky head made up of small distinct bubbles.

Aroma: On opening the bottle the aromas of molasses and rich bready roasted malts were evident. These aromas remained constant, neither increasing nor decreasing, as the pint was raised to take the first sip of brew.

Mouth feel: A medium body was enhanced by a creamy effervescence.

Flavor: The main accents are rich roasted caramel with a touch of molasses. There is very little evidence of hop flavors until they help build the slightly drier than expected finish.

Finish: The finishing flavors echo the main flavors with the additional support of the hops that leaves a drier than expected finish.

Comments:

As noted in the Heading of this blog, this bottle of Summit Winter Ale has been in the refrigerator, hiding in the back, for some time. The printing on the bottle suggests it "Should be enjoyed by Feb 10." I can tell you that was February 10, 2005.

            For a brew that is over two years old I can assure you it is one I finished after making my "tasting notes." There were a few odd looking darker brown spots that rose to the top of the head before it was reduced to glass-lace as I finished the brew. It should be noted that the refrigerator is closer to 35F than 40F and has entertained a carton or two of milk for over a week without ill effect to either the milk or the ambiance of the refrigerator.

VITAL STATISTICS:

Original Gravity:          14.5 Plato

Color (Degree L):         48

Bittering Units: 38

Alcohol / vol.               5.9%

Hops:                           Willamette, Fuggle, Tettnanger.

Malt:                            two-row Harrington, Caramel, Black Malt.

http://www.summitbrewing.com/home.php

What others thought: (The posts relate to the 06 version of the product.)

RateBeer:

http://www.ratebeer.com/beer/summit-winter-ale/9939/

Beer Advocate:

http://beeradvocate.com/beer/profile/467/2233/

Cheers!

Peter LaFrance

( http://www.beerbasics.com/ )

This morning I am going to make a glittering generality and develop it into a theorem and end up with the fact that urban imbibers have a distinct advantage over suburban and rural imbibers. That advantage is that in order to enjoy some of the best food and drink in the world all they have to do is walk to it. The use of mass transit makes the imbiber even nobler.

The early moons of my friendship with beer were passed in the rural state of Vermont, USA. These times were also spent on the campus of a "dry" university. Needless to say the limits of both university and state regulations regarding the obtaining and consumption of beverage alcohol were tested.

This rite of passage was made necessary by the good folks who brought us Prohibition and its impish offspring, the hash of local and state laws governing beverage alcohol. This has created a social environment where wine, beer and spirits are viewed as drugs to be consumed in an emergency (while dining in a restaurant with out a drive-through window) or in mass quantities while grilling meats and smoking cigars, or is it smoking meats and grilling cigars, I can't remember. In the later case it is a matter of wallowing in all the bad things of life; animal protein, saturated fats, tobacco and Satin Himself - beverage alcohol. Usually, in this case, there is usually no real need to worry about participants driving motor vehicles while under the influence. Most celebrants can be found, sound asleep, dreaming of future events, not soon after the last of the comestibles have been consumed.

            The point of this diatribe is to lament the position my motor vehicle dependent friends find themselves in. I am not condoning the consumption of mass quantities of beverage alcohol and then operating machines of any kind. I am lamenting the fact that most municipalities, towns, villages, hamlets, and communities have law enforcers that are well aware that any restaurant in their jurisdiction is on a public or private road and that is the only way to get to that establishment. They also know that folks go there to eat and drink. And finally they know that those folks will get in the motor vehicle and be liable for an inspection at the discretion of the officer in charge. (Leaving a restaurant is "probable cause" to suspect driving under the influence of a controlled substance.) This means, quite simply, that a roadblock on Friday and Saturday evenings in the vicinity of any restaurant is going to effect customers. What this says to the adults that live in this environment is that they are always going to have to gamble that one more glass of beer, wine or spirits will put them in financial and legal jeopardy (not to mention the effect on their car insurance).

            This brings me back to my earlier points on the effects of Prohibition. Until beer and wine are welcome guests on the dinner tables of families in this country there will always be the thrill of the forbidden about beverage alcohol. What am I saying! Until there are families sitting around dinner tables again and talking to each other there will always be the thrill of the forbidden to seek. If that thrill is beverage alcohol, and that were the most evil thing I faced in my life I would consider myself the luckiest man in history. We all should.

Cheers!

Peter LaFrance

( peter.lafrance@beerbasics.com )

Molson Canadian Premium Lager

Appearance: This is a pale golden very effervescent brew topped with a rocky white head with a good lacing quality.

Aroma: There is a refreshing whisper of noble hops floating in the cool space between head and nose..

Mouth feel: A light to medium feel with a sharp spike of carbonation.

Flavor: A touch of sweet and another whisper of hop.

Finish: The flavors mentioned above are not allowed to become unwelcome guests.

Comments: This would be the ideal beer for a refreshing and relaxing interlude between spending time in the ocean while soaking up the sun on a white sand beach on a hot summer day.

A Slight Digression...

All of the tasting notes are derived from a fairly stringent program. All brews are served at the temperature suggested by the brewery. The traditional straight-sided pint glass has never suffered cleaning with soap and is always dried and polished with a lint-free cotton towel. The picture is taken with available light with a Canon Powershot SD450.

            All tasting observations are mine and mine alone.

VITAL STATISTICS:

Brand/Brewer (Country)                                   % Alcohol   Calories/100 ml

Molson Canadian Premium Lager (Canada)        5.19             43

http://www.brewery.org/library/AlClbinger.html

What others thought:

RateBeer:

http://www.ratebeer.com/Beer/molson-canadian/237/

Cheers!

Peter LaFrance

( peter.lafrance@beerbasics.com  )