Shrimp Shell Soup
When I wrote my book Cooking & Eating with Beer http://www.beerbasics.com/Cooking_and_Eating_With_Beer.htm
one of the most interesting interviews was with Chef Cory Mattson, of the Farrington House, Pittsboro, North Carolina.
His discussion of cooking with beer and kitchen conservation follows:
"I got into using beer in the kitchen when I began to understand "deglazing," a better term to use rather than "reduction." I got into deglazing when I was getting seriously interested in cooking and was working in a serious restaurant called Landwares in, New Jersey, on the Delaware River in Lambertville.
It was there that I also started to work with shrimp shells. At that time the more enlightened restaurants were using things that most people would throw away for the essential ingredients in their signature dishes. One of the things that separated the fine restaurants from the others was their ability to use something like shrimp shells instead of throwing them away. We would peel and then bread shrimp for frying, or steaming or grilling and then cook the shells with some vegetables, garlic and seasoning. Then deglaze the pan with beer to get an extended cooking process. The result was a rich sauce that could be used in a number of ways. You could just throw butter in and strain it for a smooth sauce for sautéed fish, or grilled fish steaks. Or you could add cream to it for a sauce. Add a gallon or two of stock and you had a nice soup. It was unique because it was a flavor that you can't buy.
What I would like to share with you is an oriental style Shrimp Shell Soup that is based on the shrimp shell deglazing procedure with some vegetable seasonings, dry seasoning and to give it an oriental flavor; ginger, scallions, and lemon grass. The "deglaze" with beer extends the cooking process because the shells release more color, more gelatin, aroma and probably more nutrition too, the longer you can extend the cooking process. Then comes the interesting choice. You can re-hydrate it with stock, water or beer and see what you end up with. Lightly garnished with a dumpling, a pot sticker, or even simple rice or thin noodles, you have a very nice soup."
SHRIMP SHELL SOUP
From the kitchen of Cory Mattson
FARRINGTON HOUSE
Pittsboro, NC
(4 servings)
Comments: Frugality and basics is the tasty key to this basic dish. The best beer to use is a dark, rich flavored, ale. The rich color and sweet malt flavor reduces perfectly in this case. Don't worry about the hops. The heat of the peppers and the stock marry the bitter and heat nicely.
INGREDIENTS:
Shells (leftover or frozen)
3 oz. Olive oil
1 tsp. Red pepper flakes
1 tsp. Green pepper corns
3 Bay leaves
1 12 oz. Ale - rich, dark ... (
1 onion (small) - peeled and finely diced
4 celery stalks - finely diced
1 stem leeks - peeled and finely diced
1 ginger bulb (small) - chopped
Half a gallon of Chicken broth (enough to cover shells)
Garnish:
1/2 cup Shrimp - chopped
1/2 cup Scallions - sliced
1/2 cup Mushrooms -assorted - chopped
2 oz. Soy sauce - approximate
1 oz. Sesame oil (approximate)
Salt and pepper to taste
PREPARATION:
Heat a Dutch Oven. Sweat the shells, olive oil, red pepper, thyme, peppercorns and bay leaf until very orange and light brown (approximately 10 minutes). Add the ale and simmer until it is evaporated (approximately 10 minutes). Add onion, celery, leek, and ginger. Cover with broth. Simmer 30 minutes. Strain, add garnish. Season to taste with Soy sauce and Sesame oil.
And so you can see why this was one of my favorite interviews.
Cheers!
Peter LaFrance
